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Q1: Where can I go for a soil test to best determine
the type of fertilizer I should use?
A1: Testing is available through the Cooperative
Extension Service in Alamance County. You can collect your
samples and bring them to the Ag Center building at 209 N.
Graham-Hopedale Road, (336) 570-6740. They will get them sent
to the testing lab in Raleigh. Be sure to fill out an
information sheet and attach it to your sample box. This is a
great time of year to do this as you should get a reply
quickly. You only need just a cupful of soil to do the test.
If any other questions, please email us! ....Elon Gardener
Q2: I lost a Bradford Pear tree during the last ice
storm. It was the only shade for my house's front,
western (hot) exposure. What are some good replacements that
grow fairly fast, offer shade, and are not so brittle? I like
Maples but have heard their roots are problems near water
lines. This tree will be near the water main. Thanks.
A2: Red maples (Acer rebrum) are excellent trees.
The roots of any tree will not bother water lines unless
there is a crack in the line. The roots will then penetrate
the line. If your lines are fine, then you should not have a
worry. These trees have moderate growth and sturdy limbs. A
great orange/red/yellow color in the fall is an added bonus.
Willow oaks (quercus phellos) will grow moderately as well,
but only have a brown fall color. Another downfall is the
fall leaves that are numbered in the millions and are
"pinky finger" in size and very difficult to pick
up with a mower and rake. There are many of these in the
"West" area of campus. Acer rubrum: 40-50' tall
with 25-35' spread, sun or part shade. Quercus phellos:
60-80' tall with 30-40' spread, best in full sun.
Both need to be in good drainage soil. Hope this helps and
thanks for using the site! ---JC
Q3: I received a rosemary plant for Christmas. I
know it can't withstand freezing temperatures, so should
I consider this an annual? Or will it grow for a number of
years if I keep it in a pot and bring it in during cold
weather?
A3: It is always hard to move plants inside and
outside. Rosemary is considered a tender perennial. Planted
on a southern exposure or close to the foundation for some
protection should work well. I have rosemary at my home --
some on the deck on the north side and some on my south front
yard that are doing well in both locations. It doesn't
like to stay wet, so let it dry almost to a depth of your
index finger between waterings once established in your yard
or container. Fresh rosemary in your cooking is
outstanding!!! Thanks and I hope this helps. ---JC
Q4: When would you advise pruning crape
myrtles?
A4: This is a good time to prune crape myrtles.
However, unless they are interfering with a walk, mowing
ability, or a driveway, there truly is not a need to prune
them. They will bloom on old wood (existing branches) just as
well as when pruned. You may need to thin out the existing
smaller branches or any branches that are crossing one
another. As most c. myrtles are susceptible to powdery
mildew, they need to have plenty of air circulation to
prevent it. --- JC
Q5: Do I have to prune my crape myrtle in order to
get blooms?
A5: There are dozens of c.myrtle's with
different growth habits. If you plant one that meets your
requirements for height and width, you do not need to prune
it. If you are working with an existing tree, unless you have
to mow under it, walk under it, or drive past it, then you
can prune it. You will get just as many blooms without
pruning it. There is no need to prune a crape myrtle as
drastic as they do at some commercial properties around town.
Rhett Davis, our extension agent, calls this "crape
murder'!! ---- JC
Q6: What is the best way to get my tall fescue lawn
to "green up" after the winter dormancy?
A6: Fescue needs to be fertilized in late Sept or
early October with a slow release fertilizer. This encourages
root development in the cool season. This is a cool season
grass and has a hard time in full sun and full summer heat
without an irrigation system. Fertilize again in mid/late
November with a farm grade fertilizer like triple 17. The
next time would be in late Jan/early Feb with another slow
release. You will be amazed at your results if you follow
this regimen. Fertilize again in September and you can
overseed then as well. The grass will green up in spring and
will be able to tolerate heat stress better due to a more
extensive root system. Also, do not mow shorter than 3
inches. This height will allow it to shade itself and protect
it from the heat and look more plush. Contact your local ag
extension office for other details and fertilization rates in
your area. Good luck! ......Elon Gardener
Q7: Now that the weather has turned cooler, I'm
considering moving some outdoor plants to the indoors. What
procedures need to be followed to insure the plants survive
the transition? Is there a special fertilizer that I should
use?
A7: It is very stressful on plants to go
from outdoors to indoors. You need to treat the plant inside
like you did outside. If the plant was used to being in full
sun, then find a sunny location for it. The same for shade
plants. Leaves will drop due to the change. Do not over water
it. Most plants do well with being watered only when your
index finger put inside the soil doesn't get moist until
your center knuckle on the finger. Also, do not let the plant
sit with water in the saucer. Water it, allow it to drain
into the saucer, then remove the water in the saucer. The
roots will begin to rot if left standing in water. Only use a
water soluable fertilizer, following the directions on the
package and treat the plant every other month. Keep it out of
drafts and away from heater/ac vents. This should give you a
good prescription for indoor plant care. Hope this helps.
...Elon Gardener